Flavour nugget #15: preserved blood oranges

Save them for spring and summer!

My friend claims blood oranges are the ‘golden yolks of the citrus world’, swearing they don’t taste any different from their regular-coloured counterparts.

He’s wrong, of course. At least, he’s wrong about the oranges (jury is still out on the yolks?). They’re not just prettier but sweeter and more floral thanks to their anthocyanin content (which also gives the oranges their ruddy blush). The best are said to come from the area around Mount Etna where they thrive in rich volcanic soil and a unique climate; the difference in temperature around the volcano between day and night is essential in developing the ruby pigment which floods the pulp but sometimes the skin too, webbing the oily rind like broken blood vessels.

Preserving citrus is incredibly easy and a 10-minute job. All you need is the fruit, salt and some lemon juice; the extra astringency is necessary here so don’t be tempted to use blood orange juice. Aside from not doing the job it would be expensive since you’ll need a good amount of fruit to fill your jar with juice.

While they’re quick to make, you’ll need to wait a month to use them, which is OK because it’s still blood orange season. Once February has gone they’ll be ready to top your charred brassicas, weave through grain salads and whisk into dressings for fish. Come summer they’ll look like the best ingredient for ceviche, tacos and salads or try them muddled into cocktails. I’ve rounded up a few of my favourite recipes below.

---

Some lovely blood orange recipes:

• Blood orange Jaffa Cakes (Edd Kimber)

• Blood orange and chocolate tart (Great British Chefs)

• Blood orange with burrata (Ottolenghi via Vogue)

• Pork cheek tacos with blood orange and chipotle (yours truly)

• More of an idea than a recipe: charred Tenderstem, burrata, blood orange and chilli crisp (ditto).

---

Preserved Blood Oranges
Fills a 500ml jar

6-8 blood oranges
Juice of around 20 lemons
Plenty of flaky sea salt

Sterilise your jar with boiling water and allow it to dry naturally.

Cut the oranges into quarters and put them into a bowl with a large handful of sea salt. Toss to combine, rubbing the salt all over the fruit.

Pack the oranges into the jar, layering them up with more salt - don’t worry about how much you’re using; they need to be heavily salted to preserve them. Pack them in, pressing them down.

Juice your lemons and pour the juice over the fruit until it’s all submerged. You may need to weigh it down with something to ensure it doesn’t float.

Put the lid on and store in a cool, dark place for 4 weeks, gently shaking the jar every so often to redistribute the brine.

---

• How healthy is citrus fruit? (New York Times).

• I’m intrigued by this blood orange extra virgin olive oil from the Etna region.

• Apparently, all citrus came from the Himalayas (BBC).

---

SUPERSIZE ME!

For my paid subs this week, a satisfying, speedy dinner recipe using preserved lemons - crispy chicken thighs with giant cous cous, broccoli and chermoula. It’s comfort cooking with plenty of freshness and, of course, big flavours.

---

Until next time, Flavour Fans x