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Rarebit has had its ups and downs.
From the realisation that the dish isn’t Welsh (the name has its roots in a racist joke) to its revitalisation by restaurants such as London’s St John, it’s gone from peasant fodder to something you can order in a Michelin-starred gaff (OK it’s on the bar menu at St John, but the point still stands).
This modern serving style - crisscrossed on top with Worcestershire sauce settled into its trenches (or as Fergus refers to them in the St. John cookbook, ‘irrigation channels’) - has become the norm across menus up and down the country. It’s a perfect example of cooking a ‘traditional’ dish simply and well, which is why I’ve decided to change it.
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