Flavour nugget #35: A zingy cantaloupe and cucumber salad for hot weather
Refresh yourself! PLUS! THE RECIPE ARCHIVE
Over the past six months, I have become very *into* fruit.
Sure, I’ve long appreciated jam-sweet strawberries in summertime; the tart, fuzz-free ruddyness of nectarines (one of my favourite fruits); and the hardcore, feral perfume of a seriously ripe melon.
However, over the past half-year or so, I’ve come to see fruits as precious. I consider them irresistible, to be cherished. Every evening, post-dinner, I assemble a selection of fruits in a beautiful brown-green bowl I bought for the purpose and eat them slowly, often holding pieces up to the light to examine them.
I’m in my forties. I have seen fruits before.
Who knows what’s going on here, but since there are far worse things to be obsessed with, I’m leaning in.
As the heatwave continues in London, refreshing fruits with a high water content come into their own. I’m eating them for breakfast, as a side at lunch and incorporating them into my dinner. Fruit in savoury salads is transformative, introducing that element of sweetness to contrast whatever you’ve decided is your sharp ingredient - perhaps it’s lots of lemon juice, pomegranate molasses or crumbled feta (maybe all three!). Maybe it’s something salty like Parma ham or chorizo, or you want to use the juiciness of the fruit to offset a tingle of chilli.
For this week’s recipe, I’ve chosen one of the most refreshing fruits of all: melon. The cantaloupe has honeyed, floral flesh that works particularly well in this super zingy salad. The dressing is electrified with lime, sumac, and onions massaged with citrus. It’s so vibrant and juicy - irresistible on a hot day.
I've served the melon in generous, thick slices, straight from the fridge. Ditto the cucumber, which I ‘smacked’ in the Chinese style before lopping into lazy, jagged chunks. This is not the time for fretting over presentation.
This is all I want to eat right now. Dewy, lip-smacking and full of fragrance, the green snakebite of jalapeño and buzzy mint. It’s like running through a sprinkler while sucking on an ice pop. Come for the flavours; stay for the hydration.
THE ARCHIVE!
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Zingy Cantaloupe and Cucumber Salad
Makes 2 servings
1 cantaloupe melon, cut into thick slices and rind removed
1 smallish cucumber
A handful of mint leaves
1 jalapeño, finely sliced
Zest of 1 lime
Dressing
1 teaspoon sumac
1 teaspoon honey
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 tablespoons lime juice
Citrus Pickled Onions
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
Juice of 1 lemon
Juice of 1 lime
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon caster sugar
To make the citrus pickled onions, combine the lemon and lime juices, sea salt and caster sugar in a bowl. Add the sliced onions, toss to combine, then massage the pickling mixture into them with your fingers until they soften a little. Set aside.
Make the dressing by combining all the ingredients in a bowl with a pinch of salt and whisking to combine.
Place the cucumber on a chopping board and use something heavy like a rolling pin to ‘smack’ it so that it breaks slightly inside and splits a little at the sides. Chop into chunks.
Arrange the melon and cucumber pieces on a serving platter and scatter with the mint leaves and jalapeño slices. Top with the dressing and grate over some lime zest to serve.
The 5000-year history of the watermelon (Nat Geo).
If you know my work, you’ll know I hate food snobbery and (obviously, by extension) BBQ snobbery, so I enjoyed this piece from Helen Rosner on smoking (New Yorker).
I loved this piece by
on why Content Creation is Not Photography. The rise of the influencer has meant a serious lack of appreciation for art, and I, like Victoria, find this depressing.
SUPERSIZE ME!
This week, a savoury version of peaches and cream, which includes a garnish that can also be used for a dessert version of this summery combo. I know! It’s a coconut and almond crispy crunchy sprinkle that is, I’m afraid, incredibly addictive. In fact, I need to go to the kitchen right now for another handful.
Until next time, Flavour Fans x
I have recently been very into cucumbers so I am going to make this for tea.